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Remove bulb holder by twisting counter clockwise, open using clip on side, and insert bulb, placing the nub as shown. Apply pressure holding the bulb from the rear (DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS), to hold it in place while installing back into headlight. Remove included rubber grommet and reinstall cap to visualize where you’ll need to cut for the extension cap. This one ended up being slightly off center. Cut hole approximately 5 mm smaller than tracing to allow for a tight fit. I intentionally cut straighter in some parts to make a tighter fit and prevent the cap from rotating. Push through 9006 -> H7 Adapters (Red/black wiring) and Amp -> D2S adapters as show. This picture show the old cap that used to be supplied and has a secondary grommet in it to provide holes to pass through. The new cap (in the picture above) already has the holes, and so the second grommet is not needed. Just drill out the provided holes with a 3/16 bit. Slide on wiring plugs ensuring the red pins clip into place once you’ve fully inserted the pins. You may need needle nose pliers to help pull the white wire pin fully in, and to push the red clip into place. Connect your H7 Plugs to the internal plugs. Black-to-black, Red-to-green. Tape it for extra security. Please watch this video on proper installation of the bulb into the projector:
Installed properly Attach d2s plug at 90 degree angle. Suggested step if your cuts don’t leave everything very, very snug, add a layer of silicone to allow a water tight seal. LET DRY FOR 24 HOURS! We don’t want the silicone to offgas inside the headlight and ruin the lens. THIS IS ONLY REQUIRED IF YOUR CAP HAS A LOT OF WIGGLE ROOM Finished product. Either attach directly to ballast, or use a 9006 relay for added voltage regulation.